Apo Whang-od

EVER wanted a tattoo from the world's oldest tattoo artist, Apo Whang-od, in Buscalan, Kalinga, but hesitated to ask for directions? Fear not!

Here's a comprehensive guide for those eager to embark on a journey to Kalinga province and receive a tattoo from the legendary Whang-od.

Whang-od Oggay, a Butbut tribe member from Kalinga, holds the esteemed title of the «last» and oldest mambabatok (traditional Kalinga tattooist). Born in 1917, she turns 107 next February. Whang-od began tattooing Butbut headhunters and women at the age of 15. Traditionally, Butbut warriors earned tattoos after successful combat, and today, with no tribal wars, Whang-od continues the practice on visitors to her small village of Buscalan.

In 2018, Whang-od received the prestigious «Dabgal ng Haraya Award» from the National Commission for Culture and the Arts (NCCA). At 106 years old in 2023, she graced the cover of Vogue Magazine, becoming the oldest person to do so. Her popularity has transcended into pop arts, fashion, design, and her iconic three-dot tattoo is highly sought after by travelers, artists, and millennials.

The author with the crowd awaiting their turn to be tatooed by Apo Whang-od. Buscalan is a barangay in the municipality of Tinglayan, Kalinga. It’s a long drive along the roads considered by many as the most dangerous in the country. The Buscalan rice terraces.

Getting to Buscalan

Buscalan is a barangay in the municipality of Tinglayan, Kalinga. It's a long drive along the roads considered by many as the most dangerous in the country.

Buscalan is located on the boundary of Mountain Province and Kalinga. It's a small village on top of the mountain and requires a long trek down and up the ravine after a long drive from Manila. To reach Kilometer 423, the jump off point to Buscalan, drive for 4 hours from Manila to Rosario, drive to Baguio via Marcos Highway for about 2 hours, then continue drive through the 150-kilometer (km) Halsema Highway to Bontoc, then taking the 50-kmr road to Kalinga boundary. From the KM423 jump off point, it's another 4-kilometer climb to the registration area where vehicles must be parked before doing the grueling 30- to 60-minute climb to the