New-look Gucci goes back to the classics

MILAN, Italy — Gucci's new creative director made his long-awaited debut in Milan on Friday, offering a timeless, feminine collection with the aim of relaunching the luxury brand.

French owners Kering brought in Sabato de Sarno in January to replace star designer Alessandro Michele, who transformed Gucci over seven years with his eccentric, gender-fluid designs and offbeat shows.

But while Michele reached out to a younger and more diverse audience, sales lagged behind those of Gucci's rivals.

De Sarno, who spent more than a decade at Valentino, unveiled his first collection in front of an A-list crowd including actors Julia Roberts and Ryan Gosling.

The event got off to a tricky start after the catwalk had to be moved from the streets of Milan to inside Gucci's headquarters due to a forecast of rain.

In the end the setting was starkly minimalist, the models dressed in a palette ranging from grey and navy blue to pistachio and burgundy red walking under a path of lights around a huge, pitch-black space.

There was leather in all its forms, whether slitted knee-high skirts or tiny shorts with low waists, jackets, and bra tops.

Related: Gucci debuts new creative director at Milan Fashion Week

An activist with animal rights group Peta stepped briefly onto the catwalk with a sign saying "Gucci: Ban Exotic Skins."

Coats also took pride of place, including the one that opened the show, with a masculine cut with a slit at the back bordered by Gucci's trademark grosgrain ribbon.

The collection was dubbed "Ancora" ("Again") — "it's a story of everything, again, but this time expressed through joy", De Santo said in the show notes.

New chapter

De Sarno's appointment came as something of a surprise, as the 40-year-old from Naples was